June 2012 Surf Sessions
6/30/12 PM Session: 1-3ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 46
I checked the Lane after work and although the tide was too low I could tell it had potential for an evening high tide grovel session. Sure enough when I checked it around five thirty it looked really fun. Similar conditions to yesterday but a bit bigger. I got down there and frothed the shit out of the meager but fun offerings. I had a ball out there dismantling whatever came my way, lefts, rights and straights. Last night I got hammered, ran into Jules who I happily snubbed then went on what could be the gnarliest rampage on the town I have had yet. Love that old habits die hard.
6/29/12 PM Session: 1-2+ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 39
I must admit I drank a wee little bit too much at my dinner party the night before and woke up feeling on the slow side. I had a hair appointment at 11am with the goddess of hair herself Elyse. From there I had the usual end of the month errands, rent and cable bills. On the way home I checked the Lane and noticed there may have been a enough swell coming in to make a grovel session on the high. When I got back it was perfect little side shore/off shore conditions. It was classic G.I.Joe NJ surf if I ever saw it. Overall it was pretty weak but I did manage to get a really fun backside shack on one.
6/28/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Surf Beach
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves surfed: 23
With little to no surf on the current five day forecast I decided to matters in my own hands and make the trek up north to Surf Beach. I was hoping to get this little fagot kid I work with to go up with me so we could split the gas and I would not be all by myself in great white country. Unsurprising he blew me off this morning thus solo Chris it was. I got up there around 9ish. There were about five guys out riding the inside shore break reform. Although they were killing it I did not drive all that way to ride average at best reform. There were definitely a few bombs to be had on the outside. I made the long scary paddle over very eerie, very deep, very cold, sharky waters. When you are sitting out there all by yourself in the middle of nowhere and it is cloudy and desolate all you can think about is what lurks beneath. All of a sudden every movement in the water becomes of interest, every sound, every splash, every boil a possible preamble to a gruesome fate. Maybe if the surf was not so inconsistent and shifty I might have not been so on tracked. The outer banks were all messed up making most waves either too dumpy or too sectiony and overall the whole lineup in classic surf beach fashion was way too shifty. I did manage two backside barrels and a handful of alright backside waves. At the very least it was nice to ride something over waist high for a change.
6/27/12 AM Session: 1-3ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves surfed: 20
I was suppose to surf with this chick Stephanie, but then over slept. I checked the buoys and there seemed to be enough swell that the Harbor should have been fun. I got down there and it was not. I was hoping it was to be one of those it looks worse then it is sessions. Instead it was way worse then it looked. I did manage to find two good lefts. Overall it was weak, windy and terrible definitely not worth the price of admission. To add injury to insult it took me almost an hour and half to get home thanks to stupid construction traffic.
6/26/12 PM Session: 1-2ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves surfed: 21
How I am still finding the motivation to grovel this flat spell is beyond me. I had a job interview in Carpinteria and decided to surf Emma afterward. It as terrible, windy, weak and crowded for what was there. I found three really horrible lefts and two rights. Overall it was a big waste of time.
6/25/12 PM Session: 1-2+ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 44
Always expect the unexpected? That’s sort of been a long standing principle here in Lisanti Land. Lindsay hit me up in the morning waking me up from the barely three hour sleep I had after a solid thirty hours of pure Lisanity. She wanted to surf or hike I was down for either. She picked me up after her class and we cruised to her house for lunch. Lindsay is the only person who actually makes me food and from time to time it is very much appreciated. We were chilling at her house when her friend Stephanie rolled over and joined us on a little stroll with Lindsay’s dog Reese along the Douglas preserve at the end of the Mesa. The preserve happens to be one of my favorite thinking spots in the area. From up on the cliff we noticed some small but kill-able little waves down at the pit. It was beautiful day weather wise, 75, sunny, water still that crystal clear blue, dolphins frolicking in the surf and the water as warm as it gets around here. You would be cheating yourself if you did not go for a surf. Stephanie apparently used to surf and got super stoked and since I happened to have a rack full of boards in my room and a box full of wet suits was able to accommodate such wishes. We all went down to Mesa Lane, which by the time we got our act together had gotten a bit drained with the tide. Although the conditions were far from epic we managed to have a great time. I stuck another fs ally-oop and almost brought down a decent bs air reverse, but for some reason I had slippery feet and could not complete most of what I was going for. Steph’s stoke took the cake for me. Waves I would normally not give two shits about and just surf to stay in shape when looked at through a different surfer’s eyes allows me to share in their stoke thus enhancing my own.
6/24/12 PM Session: 1-2ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves surfed: 48
After an already fun filled action packed day in Lisanti Land my buddy Gabe and I cruised to Mesa Lane cause he wanted to see the set up out there. It was very small, but the water was crystal clear blue and it was a perfect beach day weather wise. After hanging out and watching for a half hour we talked out selves into paddling out. You can usual talk yourself into paddling anytime you watch it for a while. Shit it would have been a day to be stoked on if I was in NJ in late June. Overall it was just small weak scrubby wind swell. With good company it became a real hoot and somehow I managed to get a few fun rights and lefts, even managing to stick an fs ally oop.
6/23/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
That’s what the C Street report was claiming. I must say I am rather skeptical of its validity judging from the cam. I missed the morning courtesy of work and my back hurts a bit as well. I am exhausted courtesy of last night’s less then stellar party at the Wild Cat. Unfortunately it looks as if we are heading into a terrible flat spell and bad winds up north. Now it feels more like summer. I decided to save my gas, may have a look in the morning.
6/22/12 AM Session: 1-3+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves surfed: 24
Last night was gnarly downtown. My dinner party, a special Happy Birthday Danny dinner where I served veal saltimbocca and I stuffed acorn squash with a balsamic/red wine reduction acini di pepe roasted vegetable sort of thing that I think will definitely make it to my menu, Ashley brought over a chocolate ice cream mud pie she made, and as usual there was plenty of wine. After that my new party partner in crime Dave hit me up and told me to show up to Tonic, of all places (the nemesis of the Kitty). Since I am trying to branch out to a broader range of women I decided to go. Tonic was the usual bull I expected, douchey guys, boring chicks and beat ass over priced drinks. I did manage to run into a pack of Westmont girls I fed last semester one of which I have always had a hankering for. Turns out she is chilling in SB for the summer. May have to make another trip to Tonic at some point. From there I rolled to the Wild Cat so I could get good and hammered. I ran into my roommate Dan already trashed off his skull. Talked to Vespera a little bit, don’t know why she still has the hold over me she does, at least I have learned to keep a safe distance from her. This morning I woke up and my back was feeling a bit better and the Cstreet report was calling 2-3+ft and fair. Pumped I cruised down to the Harbor where it was 2-3 at best, small, weak and inconsistent. I saw a few lefts coming in between the north side of the reeds and the knoll. I went out there and had a few on the sand bars there. I resurrected the Rooster board since I just painted my current board and still need to clean it up. Once a magic board always a magic board that is all I have to say. Over a year old, repaired a hundred times over and that thing still rode amazing. Despite the conditions I had a ball. Stuck a really clean nice fs air.
6/21/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
The first day of summer
Not being able to surf is a serious bummer
Courtesy of my back my body is under attack
Instead I slept till noon
As a result of June Gloom
Even if Edward Bloom would not approve
I’m trying my best to make a big move
I will pass this test
For such I am doing my best
Tomorrow is another day and to that I surely attest.(extra UCB point Who is Edward Bloom)
6/20/12 No Surfing: 2-3ft
I found myself back on the injury list this morning courtesy of my back. Old age does have is draw backs and one of them is all that hard fast living you enjoyed in your twenties coming back to bite you in the ass or in my case my back, shoulders and knee. I think each of these ailments take turns plaguing me through out the year. Right now my back is being a bitch cause of the strain I am putting on it at my stock job at Mesa Produce. Its not really my fault. The place is poorly designed with tons of very tight corners that make proper lifting techniques near to impossible. I tried to surf through it, but it has only gotten worse so now the logical thing is to take a brief break and let things heal a bit. Might sleep on the floor tonight. Its all good I have been getting plenty of surf at the moment anyway. I took my roommate Danny out last night to Dargan’s this Irish pub so he could shoot pool. I hate Irish pubs, but it was the sacrifice I made . I snuck out around 1am and went to the Cat. There is no place like home.
6/19/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 20
I had an appointment at 2pm back in the Barb and got up later then usual causing this to be the first timed surf I have had in a long while. It was good my body needed the rest after a hard run of good old fashioned party. Lets just say sometimes the capacity I have for getting out of hand amazes even myself and we will leave it at that. I cruised to Emma but it looked small and weak barely fun for the three super groms on it. I was going to bag the surf all together but am really trying to make the most out of surfing I can. I went to the harbor one a hail Mary and immediatly coming over the dunes I saw a solid wave break. River Mouth was fat and shifty as usual. New Jetty was just fat, but with some boost able close outs. I did a force paddle and managed to get one really good left out of the very back washy, shore breaky, closed out trash that was coming in.
6/18/12 No Surfing: 1-3ft
A 36 day in a row surf streak broken thanks impart to lots of party, laziness, lack of motivation and lastly shit conditions. Its been a good run, the longest in a while, but all good things have to come to an end. Last night I repeated a mistake, insanity: doing the same thing over again and expecting different results. Whatever such is life. Some day I will pull my head out of my ass and actually make shit happen the way I want it to. Till then be stoked you can read about my self inflicted misfortunes and misadventures.
6/17/12 PM Session: 1-3ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves surfed: 22
Talk about a mirror session of the previous only smaller. Saturday night the “Stockers” went hard downtown. Dave, Sean, Rock Star Burt and I met up with a few other peeps at the Kitty and proceeded to get really fucking shitty. I blacked out and from what I am told went absolutely nuts, scary nuts. I have yet to decide if I want to write about it or not here. On one hand its a really funny, ridiculous story on the other does writing about such just glamorize my usual imbecilic behavior I have been trying to phase out of my life? You be the judge. If three readers post in the comments they want to hear yet another drunken Lisanti tale over the next few days I will write it. As far as the surf goes I was surprisingly not hung over, but slightly hindered from a foot injury courtesy of my blacked out shenanigans. I got a few but it was weak and I was over it rather speedily.
6/16/12 PM Session: 2-3ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves surfed: 22
After kicking it mellow style at home Friday night so I would be in good shape for mt 7am shift I was still having some minor back pain. Not very motivated I almost bagged the session all together. Sean convinced me otherwise point out that I had been on a really good streak surfing everyday for I think the twenty five or so. I got in the water and for whatever reason began to tear apart the wind blown chest high right bowls that were coming in. Crowd as light and I frothed. I stuck three solid bs air reverses one of which being the biggest and cleanest I have ever pulled. I would have surfed till dark, but I had bunch of fun and did not want to over do it on my back. Quitting while your ahead is always a wise decision.
6/15/12 PM Session: 1-3+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 32
Last night my boy Dave and I hit college night with a reckless abundance. Knowing the tide was later anyway I decided to sleep in a bit. Lindsay called me at around 11 to surf back in town from a two week jaunt between Santa Cruz and San Diego. I was stoked to have my surf buddy back. Lindsay is always fun to surf with. Lets face it she is pretty much on of the few friends I have in SB in general. We cruised to the ‘Con and it was a tad smaller then the past few days but still had some fun ones coming through the River Mouth. At first I was having a good session till my back slowly kept getting worse. Small waves are much harder on your back then larger ones. Still it was a good time. I guess I need to take it easy for the next couple of days so I can take advantage of the next NW swell that is to fill in early week.
6/14/12 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
My back was killing me when I woke and I was not sure if I was even going to be able to surf. I took my time getting up, did some stretching, had some ibuprofen and a little breaky. I checked the models and just by the looks of it I knew the ‘Con was going to be on. I got my act together and sure enough it looked really fun although a bit windy. Lower River Mouth looked the most solid. It was super fast but very make-able. I was feeling a little stiff on the first few, but then it my stride and went ballistic. I was killing it. Big hits, crisp turns and some mental airs. I even found some really good ones in the cove. I may have to put this in my all time top ten performances at Rincon ever. The only bullshit thing was I got more tar on my fucking foot.
6/13/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 35
I always forget what a great wave Rincon is after not surfing it for awhile. I let friends talk me into driving by it for the majority of the late season in search of bigger yet not nearly as good beach break. I need to remember my tastes are different and go with my gut. It looked a bit small out there for my liking but perfect, especially up at the Indicator and River Mouth sections. Knowing the tide was dropping I gave it go and scored. I picked off so many six to ten turn rides my legs were burning. I surfed the place well too. The crowd was light. Towards the end of the session I went into the cove and caught up with my friend Baron this old vet who absolutely rips the place on his log. I ended up scoring a sick wave through the cove. I got my last one to the highway. Late season Rincon is a real blessing. Rincon in June an anomaly. Pure stoke.
6/12/12 PM Session: 2-3ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves surfed: 48
I had to work the morning again at Mesa Produce. Its a catch 22 I like not starving but I hate working and I especially hate waking up a 7am to do such, to ruin my back and get frustrated for a measly $10 an hour. America really has to start paying people for what they are worth. I was having a tough day mentally and emotionally. I checked Mesa Lane after work and there was definitely a solid right coming through. I called my bud Ryan down south for a report and he said if there were waves in town to save my gas. I rolled to the Lane with marginal expectations and ended up having a blast. I surfed super well. I mean I could almost do no wrong. It was a much needed release.
6/11/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, New Jetty
Time in water: 1.5hrs
Waves surfed: 18
I was awakened by a desperate phone call from my boss in attempt to get me to cover for a no show at 7:30am. I was a bit hung over from the Kitty, it was Sunday after all and really did not want to work a 12 hour day there. I ignored the call, slept another hour then went surfing. The wind swell we have benefited from the past few days had all but dropped out forcing me to cruise to harbor in search of some short period south and windswell combo. the wind was a bit on it and spot crowded as heck. Ryan convinced Gordo and I to paddle. I just was not feeling it. I stepped in a huge a ball of tar paddling out, which got all over my board and body. I had few decent lefts but I did not have the gusto I usually have out there. Then on the way home I got stuck in traffic for over an hour. I guess you wind some and you loose some.
6/10/12 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 40
Wow I got hammered with my couch guy Sean and Co-worker Dave at the Wild Cat. It was a fun night that as I am told ended with me going on a rampage all over town. I came home with out a shirt on who’s were abouts are dodgy at best. Needless to say waking up at 9am for work was a bit of a stretch, followed by the shittiest work day after. I came home, plopped down on the couch and enjoyed a newly acquired copy of Zoolander. Thank You Ventura swap meet. After procrastinating the afternoon I cruised to Mesa which was still looking very fun although very crowded. I got in the water and began working the left bowl and getting my ass kicked on the very shallow air section. After about an hour’s worth of beating I decided to get some rights and from there on it became a fucken shred fest. I was sticking all sorts of gnar. I also got a pretty stupid FS tube as well.
6/9/12 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 2hrs, 15mins
Waves surfed: 38
Late season NW wind swell had just about every Santa Barbara winter time spot up and running. I could have went to Rincon or one of the points, but Mesa Lane is right on my doorstep and it was a weekend and I was lazy. Plus it looked fun as fuck, chest to head with blowly lefts and rights, glassy conditions. Crowd was a bit busy, yet very manageable. I frothed the fuck out of the session sticking all sorts of cool shit. Its always great when it does not cost me $10 in gas to go for a surf.
6/8/12 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 2hrs 15mins
Waves surfed: 43
Mesa Produce is killing me. I forgot just how hard stocking produce for eight hours a day can be. Maybe it is just that I was five years younger when I was doing it? All I know is I am exhausted all the time, too much to even party, which inadvertently probably is not a bad thing. Between chefing and Mesa P I have to say that I am missing that clutch chill ass gas station job I had a few years back, where I got free gasoline, read books and wrote blogs, all the while getting paid. Trying to become a “real” person may have been a big mistake. I got down to Emma where there was less energy then the previous day, yet more crowd. It was a Friday afternoon, what did I expect? I was less then stoked but was there, my boys’s Ryan and Dave were out and Gabe was en route. Who am I to pass up a bro down. right off the bat I picked off a really good right and then followed it up with a sick underlip left take off to barrel into a big fs reo. Unfortunately after that the crowd tripled and I was barely getting scraps anymore. I paddled to the south peak and fucked around on this shit left for a bit with Gabe and this other Mexi guy who surfs there a ton. That turned off as the tide dropped so I went back to main peak in front of the parking lot booth with the rest of the crowd. It was slowly dropping off and I was able to get some really good ones. Out of nowhere I lucked into this solid right, came off the bottom, hit the lip square up and down then went right into a huge show stopper of a BS full rotation air reverse. It may have been the biggest one I have ever pulled. Everyone was staring at me when I paddled back out thinking “what fuck was that and how did he pull it”. Stoked I got a few more and went in. Oh and right after that I almost stuck a full rotation FS air reverse on the very next wave. I guess there may really be a positive correlation to drinking less and surfing more. Whatever I am still going to get hammered tonight.
6/7/12 PM Session: 2-4+ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 3hrs
Waves Surfed: 56
Frothy, frother, frothenstien. I don’t know but lately I have become an animal in the water on most occasions. What a sick mother fucking session and I almost didn’t even surf. I had to work at from 7am-2pm cause may boss is a bitch and wants to make me miserable. She actually reminds me a lot of my mother and I think that is why I always gravitate back to this shitty establishment and job. I left SB at around 4 after checking a clean, but small and over crowded Mesa Lane. From there I checked Rincon since Santa Clause Lane had a wave. Rincon almost sold me on the top had it been a tad more consistent. From there I went to Ventura Harbor, which I was hoping would be bombing after the previous session I had there. New Jetty was tiny and shit, River Mouth had a bit more happening but very shifty and I have been out there in such conditions before and know just how terrible it can be. If I had a friend with me I probably would have paddled. Finally I ended up at a very crowded and what looked like thanks to my utter frustration for car surfing over two hours not that good. I drove to Solimar, but that was smaller and weaker. I bit the bullet and went back to Emma Wood and the crowed actually had decreased immensely. Right off the bat I nailed a solid right, followed by one of the deepest gnar left barrels I have caught in a long time. I stuck a few huge BS air reverses and overall out performed my own standards. It was a solid session to say the least.
6/6/12 AM Session: 4-6+ft, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1hr 45mins
Waves Surfed: 22
I was hurting this morning, maybe a little bit from the froth the previous two days, maybe a bit from a mellow night at the Wild cat to see this girl’s terrible band play. All I know is I was feeling very tired and sore. Sleeping the majority of the night on the little couch was most likely not the best of ideas. I checked the points in the hopes some of the 11ft of NW wind swell would get in there, but it was longboardable at best. Ryan called and said New Jetty looked promising so I made a B Line for there. Sure enough it was solid over head with bombs and close outs. Classic NW New Jetty. Unfortunately I just was not in the shape to make the most of the conditions. I made some bad wave choices leaving me stuck on the inside getting taxed by the sets. the first hour Ryan and I had it all to ourselves and it was glassy. Then the wind picked up and the crowd got harder. I got dropped in on by some idiot who surfs Strand all the time and that was my indication it was time to go home. Still I got my share. Going to have grovel either Cstreet or Emma wood in the avro the next few days as I am working. Yes that is right I said it, WORKING! I have to work the next five mornings or so.
6/5/12 PM Session: 2-3ft, Mesa Lane
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 28
When the sheep started grazing I had an inkling that there may be a fun dusk session at The Lane. Upon checking it the wind was still a bit side shore and break looked average at best. I saw a couple of good ones that led me to believe it had potential. Then an old friend of mine who I have not seen in months showed up, Josh and pushed me over the edge on the surf, not that it takes too much for me to do that. I ran home suited up and blew up. What a sick little session. I snagged a bunch of fun waves and was flaring hard. I stuck a really technical bs air reverse to nose pick. Found a solid FS tube came out and hit a small little air. Hit a few ally-oops. It was just one of those awesome sessions that take you by surprise.
6/5/12 AM Session: 4-6ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves surfed: 20
Talk about a hard twenty today. I woke up early hoping to catch really fun clean left hand barrels at River Mouth especially after last nights killer Soli session. Of course overnight a short period NW wind swell filled in completely crossing up the south swell and fucking up the channel. I was left with scattered disorganized peaks up and down the beach with no discernible lineup in sight despite the fact that the wind was off shore. It looked like there were some really good sections and barrels if you found the right ones and were in the right spot. Well I saw a ton of good waves all over and up until my last one did not get any. The wind switched half way through the sess adding injury to insult. I did manage to snag a well overhead backside bomb who’s drop had my heart in my mouth considering how late my take off was. Welcome to surfing in the 805 during summer. Just can’t catch a fucking break. Should have stayed in bed and whacked off.
6/4/12 PM Session: 2-3+ft, Solimar
Time in Water: 3hrs
Waves Surfed: 57
Hows that for a number on the board, 57 waves all on a day where I almost did not even surf. I woke up a bit late for the AM tide push thanks to a less then fruitful night at the Kitty. From what I heard I made the right call sleeping in anyway. As the day went on more south swell filled in. I saw some fun ones at New Jetty and was about to paddle when the wind went from bad to worse causing me to abandon ship. As I was cruising my boss at the produce market called and claimed I was suppose to be at work. I thought the opposite so I guess there was a misunderstanding. Luckily my boy and new couch guy Sean was able to cover the shift for me so I did not have to run all the way back up to the Barb. Emma was too low, Pipes too messy, Gold Coast too closed out, but then there was Solimar. I pulled off to perv this hot chick in a bikini for the spank bank and while lurking her out I saw that there were some really fun looking waves coming in on the reef. Turns out it was like Swami’s on a small day. I had ball. The rights on the good ones allowed me to garnish 4-9turns and the lefts were super kill-able too. I was frothy like a grom, then flared up and went to town. If the lineup did not get mobbed by a bunch of kook kids and long boarders I most likely would have surfed till dark. Good Sess!
6/3/12 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 1.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 20
Cloudy skies and poor conditions, must be summer in the 805. The buoys had some swell on them and I was really hoping to get some action over at the harbor. Of course since the sand is absolute trash it was pretty much high tide all day leaving me with less then hopeful conditions. Ryan was frothy on the beach so we paddled. Right off the bat I had a few good lefts and rights, stuck a fs air and straight reverse. Then the wind got harder three more guys came and sat on us and I just was not getting anything quality, not to mention I wore my summer wettie and was a bit chilly. I guess grovel season has officially began.
6/2/12 PM Session: 1-3ft, Emma Wood
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 8
For our last night Vlad and I decided to kill two bottles of Patron. If your going to black out and be hung over all the next day why not do it in style eh? He had to cruise back a tad earlier then expected leaving with the option to go back to SD and hand out with west for the remainder of the weekend and fight the crowds at Blacks or cruise back to the Barb. After a few hour sober up time I swallowed my hangover got in the car and headed back north. I stopped at Lowers only to about 300 guys fighting for a weak looking inconsistent chest high. Decided to pass and sat in traffic on the 405 through LA instead. I probably should have just went to uppers or something. On the way back up I cruised by Emma Wood and there was a small but kill-able bowl coming in. My boy Ryan happened to be checking it at the same time and we talked ourselves into a paddle. Unfortunately the tide got way too high for the size and bottom, way to fast leaving us with a very poor showing.
6/1/2012 AM Session: 2-3+ft, Blacks Beach, San Diego
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves surfed: 34
Vlad, Alex and I met up with West again for another round of surf at Blacks. Conditions were a bit smaller then the previous day but way cleaner and very nice bowly shape. We sat more on the northern sand bar peaks enjoying fun lefts and rights. It reminded me of really fun New Jersey and I frothed the fuck out of it. I had one nice little fs barrel and a hand full of airs. It was a fun session to say the least.
This is part of the reason I needed all those naps. Mesa will work you for that 9.00 an hour.
fucking serious. Im working your shitty shift too, 7-2
ugg that is terrible. At least there are wave there. Lake atlantic over here
Dude its actually been really fun for a time of year where I should be just about ready to go nuts because of lack of surf. I mean nothing life changing but consistently rippable.
[…] June’12 […]
UCBing that story of the stockers out on the town.
Story^
alright we got two, One more and I will write the blog as embarrassing as it is for me.
you know you cant post under an alias Kooky just so that I will tell a story, but if your that interested maybe I will.
Edward bloom is the guy who tells all the stories in that tim burton movie, Big Fish.
oh man 1 point!
And that Kooky is why you will always be the King, the proverbial Kelly Slater of SurfingRuiedMyLife.net
I think right now I am Mark Richards.
[…] June’12 […]