Surfing Ruined My Life

Last year we had already seen three solid NW swells by this time, but it was El Nino and as I’ve been told La Nina is not to be thought all that highly upon.  Technically Rincon broke a few weeks ago but it was only a minor wind swell.  Today on the other hand we saw the first true NW groundswell of the season, add unseasonable 100 degree weather and it was on.

I had to work from 6am to 2:30pm my only consolation knowing that Rincon would most likely be waiting for me when I got off.  I showed up around 4pm ready to shred.  The lot was pretty crowded forcing me to park in the top lot about half way in.  Normally when this is the case I just move on to another spot.  Not today, its opening day and anyone who is anyone at a surf spot must show their face for at least one wave on opening day. Besides I always get my waves at the Con’ anyway.

I get down to the point and it was far from what I had hoped only about chest with the occasionally plus set and about fifty guys spread amongst the entire point.  With a steadily dropping tide I figured it could only get better.  I was heading to the top as I usual do on such small size when a friend of mine talked me into surfing the cove claiming it was rather kelpy and over crowded up there.

Him and I have similar surfing styles and wave interests so I took his word for it and focused my session in the cove, by far the best section at Rincon anyway.  It was crowded but it turns out the majority were just donkeys getting in the way more then competing for waves.  The whole sess went down splendid.  I was still not sure if it could be truly considered opening day until I saw Tom Curren come screaming down the point on a fun looking right.  If Curren is out then you know its real Rincon.

It was getting near the end of my session and I was just looking for one more good one.  Of course whenever that is the case snagging said wave is nearly impossible.  I actually had three good ones that would have been more then amiable to quit on except for the fact that I was burned miserably by this kook ass chick on the first, and the next two I spent the entire wave on defense fighting off other potential drop ins during the best section of the wave.

Finally a set wave came my way, although I was a little deep.  I was sitting there watching to see if this lady deeper then myself was going to go.  Not surprising she opted out of it being a bit too late giving me the chance for it.  Im not going to lie I was super deep and very late on the take off.  I grabbed my rail for a Hail Mary elevator drop into a larrel (shitty barrel).  Somehow I made it out and as I was bottom turning to set up the next section of the wave I saw this guy drop in.

The surfer turned out to be none other then three time world champ Tom Curren.  There are a few people who I don’t get angry at burning me at Rincon, him being one.  When he saw I made it through the foamy larrel thing and was cruising he pointed down the line, pulled off the back of the wave and bowed his head to me.  I ended up getting four top to bottom backside hits on it, followed by three roundhouse rebounds to the beach.  Thank you Tom for the wave and the respect.

Here is some Ricon Highlights from last season.  Im so glad its winter again.

Nothing like a good backside assault at one of the worlds best right hand points.