Surfing Ruined My Life

Mother fucker, two steps forward and ten steps back .  I dont ask for much out of life (thats a lie, but I get the most out of what I am given and that is statement you can take to the bank).  For the last five days or so I have been nursing a mysterious wrist injury (although Im sure I can trace it back to work)  which has been a literal pain but just a slight hindrance on my everyday life.  Work is tough; try chopping up food and lifting heavy shit all day with a hurt right wrist.   Surfing was a little annoying having to favor my left arm for both standing and duck dives, but I got through it.

This afternoon I went to Rincon not expecting much more then a grovel session of which I received.  Lindsay was out and I had not surfed with her in like two weeks so I figured what the hey, I will get a little paddle in.  Around my 7th or 8th wave I pulled a backside reverse and somehow tweaked my back again probably from the wind up going into the maneuver.  Immediately upon riding the move out I knew I was fucked feeling very similar to how my back felt just two weeks ago when I hurt it at work.

Now with the first solid west swell of season due to hit Thursday, my day off, which I was planning on spending surfing all day it looks like I will be sidelined yet again.  If this is old age I dont want it.  Heck Im only 29.  Im not that fricken old yet.  When I was in New Zealand I traveled with this dude Jeff from Sand Diego who was 29 and he was always complaining about all sorts of little ailments.  One day his knee hurt or if not his knee then a shoulder or he would tweak his back and have to sit out a day or two.  I was always like “Dude your only 29 your not old enough for all these little problems”.  At the time I was 24 about to turn 25 and he would always respond “Just wait I had no problems either till I was this age”.

Turns out the fuck was right.  I wonder what happened to that guy.  We got into a stupid fight over me not letting him use the kitchen of the resort I worked at because I was cleaning it and he had to wait like everyone else till it opened back up a noon.  I mean the place was only closed from 10:30 to Noon giving me barely an hour and a half to clean it and the four bathrooms attached.  Dont think it was easy to clean a kitchen area used by thirty to forty people a day.  Anyway he thought I was being a dick and a bad friend not letting him in to cook a meal, but I was just trying to do my fucking  job.

After that he checked out of his room got in his car and drove off.  I never saw or heard from the dude since.  Its gnarly how people can be.  We were pretty tight and to go bail like that was just plain retarded if you ask me.  Whatever this blog is not about Jeff or New Zealand or friendship type relations so I wont waste any more time talking about it.  What was I whining about again.  Oh yeah my fucked up back and wrist both of which hurt right now at this second as I am hunched over my computer and using my hands to type this.  Two actions that are sure to not help me feel any better.Why am I continuing on?  Cause Im a stupid schmuck

Fuck you, fuck me, fuck my back, fuck my life, fuck this blog.  Seriously how tired are all of you of my insipid bitching.  “My back hurts, I dinged my surf board, California is too crowded, I have no money, I hate people etc, etc, etc, etc times infinity”.  God Im a whiny little bitch.  I cant believe anybody reads this garbage or that Im writing it or that you are still reading it.  Fuck off, Im going to walk into a bank tomorrow at lunch hour with an automatic weapon (taking full advantage of every American’s god given right to bare arms), shoot everyone inside, wait for the cops to come and then step out side and go out in blaze of glory as they shoot me up full of lead live on the News.  Good night.