Surfing Ruined My Life

After writing yesterdays waste of time misery blog I must say I went to sleep quite sullen at my somewhat grim situation.  I mean compared to starving kids in Ethiopia mine was not such a bad plight, but this is not Ethiopia, Im not starving and I could not give a shit about those who are.  All I want to do is surf and it always seems like that is the hardest entity in my life, thus ultimately ruining my life leaving me more times then not dissatisfied and miserable. Well now you know where I got the idea for the title of the website anyway.

I have never really been a religious man, sure I was brought up Roman Catholic although that was more to appease my mother then for me.  I had a brief stint as a Buddhist which lasted all of 5 minutes when I realized that meditation was the most boring thing I had ever embarked upon.  These days I settle for plain Agnostic.  Last night before I shut my eyes I made a bold move toward paganism and said a prayer to the Surf Gods.  Now I dont really know if there are surf gods, but I have always imagine them to be Tiki type creatures and of course Duke Kahanamoku, the man who single handedly brought surfing to the entire world.

I did not really pray to them but more or less made an appeal to their kindness considering the sacrifices I have made for surfing in my life and my all out devotion to it.  I simply asked to give me the strength to surf this swell despite my debilitated state.

When I woke up this morning I could barely get out of bed my back hurt so bad.  I momentarily considered calling in sick to work yet after realizing I could not go with the financial loss sucked it up and got dressed.  All shift I was in great pain between my back and my wrist making me set on not surfing.  Then miraculously as I was walking back to my car my back did not hurt very much at all.  I decided to drive to Rincon and if it looked worthy I would go out and just cruise all mellow style.

Well I never got there.  No sir.  As I was driving by Sharks Cove I noticed an handful of guys surfing it.  Then as I passed Santa Claus it was solid overhead.  With both those indicators I made a U-turn and headed straight for Loons.  I figured worst case scenario if I got skunked it was not like I was in the shape to surf anyway.  Turns out I scored it, the biggest I have ever gotten the place.   It was solid head high with the occasional bigger set, oil glass with only seven people out, a far better scenario then Rincon which I heard was packed.

Killian Garland was tearing it apart.  I somehow managed to snag a few great rides despite being a bit restricted with my range of motion.  Some poor kid took a shallow one and ate it over the rocks breaking some ribs.  At first I was like shit are we all going to have to carry him out of here, the spot is about a quarter of a mile beach hike to get to. Luckily some other guy out there drove his truck out onto the sand to the spot to rescue the ailing grom.  Besides that it was a session for the books.

Thank you surfing gods for coming through for me.  Every now and then you smile upon me.  I know this blog is 88.7 percent negative but every so often its nice to have an encouraging post.

The Surf Gods in carving form

The Duke has his own US postage stamp seems pretty god like to me