What a month in surfing up here in the (805)! March started out super slow and it would be lie if I said that I was not more then a little annoyed with the early month’s conditions (see the surflog for detalis). Then mid March things began to change and the North Pacific started to light up giving us a reminder of what we all enjoyed on a regular basis starting in September and ending in July of the 2009-2010 NW swell season. It all started with a great but very crowded day at Rincon and then snow balled from there. By the time Kooky Kyle got out here things were in full gear and he lucked into the best week of WNW swells of the season (see Kooky Kyle’s Lisanti Adventure Tour for more details on that).
I personally surfed my brains out. March brought about two wonderful entities that allowed me some well deserved extra water time. First off there was Spring Break, and not just one spring break like most people have. I got two! Thats right, Westmont’s and City College’s breaks did not coincide with each other but fell adjacent thus allowing me to have one week off from work and one from classes. Throw in Kooky’s visit, when ever I have a guest out here I feel obligated to get them as much time in the water as possible, and it all equals tons and tons of water time. Then we moved the clocks forward an hour adding an extra hour of day light and more surf time for Chris.
The numbers were a bit interesting this time around now in their second month. I have found so far that it seems that when my surf time is restricted I catch more waves then when I have an unlimited amount of surf time. Also I have noticed that at Rincon I average about 15 waves a session out there regardless of the time I spend in the water. I froth the shit out of crappy beach breaks where I average about 25 waves per hour. Here is how it all broke down in the month of March:
Number of Sessions Surfed: 29
Days Surfed: 24
Time Spent in the Water: 50 hours 25 minutes
Number of Waves Surfed: 717
Average Waves Per Hour: 14
Spots Surfed:
Rincon: 11
Mesa Lane: 4
Hammonds: 4
Sand Bar: 2
Emma Wood: 1
Gold Coast: 1
Loons: 1
El Capitan: 1
Dredge: 1
Pitas: 1
Santa Clarita River Mouth: 1
Top 3 Sessions:
3: 3/11/11 PM Session: 3-4+ft, Hammonds
Waves Surfed: 30
Time In Water: 1hr 20mins
I wanted to get a morning session in but then all the beaches were closed thanks to the Tsunami that ended up being yet another nonevent. I tried to sneak in at three different spots only to be chased away by the cops. By the third attempt I was out of time and had to go to class. I hate closed beaches if I want to drown in a Tsunami it should be my prerogative. Afternoon came around and my boys Mauriello and Brennan rolled into town and Kooky was beginning his Chris Lisanti Adventure Tour. After a failed Sand Bar mission we ended up at Hammonds thanks to all the traffic on the south bound 101. As it turned out the session ended up being super fun even if there was some cross wind on it and sectiony. I stuck a sick full rotation backside air reverse. Everyone had fun, Brennan got a great wave. Good times for all.
2: 3/17/11 PM Session1: 3-5ft, El Capitan
Waves Surfed: 29
Time In Water: 2.5 hrs
EL CAPITAN!!! EL CAP, damn it finally broke and broke well too. I wanted to get there by 11am, but thanks to an early morning appointment at the career center at school that ran way too long Kooky and I did not make there till around 1pm. Upon checking it I could tell it was solid chest to head high with offshore winds and moderate crowd. We were on it. It was probably the best El Cap I have ever surfed of course given the fickleness of the place it was also only my 4th session out there ever. It works out that I get about one session there a year and this was it (maybe I can squeeze one more in, only time will tell). I ended up getting a solid 50 yard tube through the bottom of the point. Sure I had to scrap like a mad man to do it, but I made it happen. Then in the last half hour the place just got mobbed to the point where it was so crowded I could not even turn to take a wave with out running into someone. Apparently a group of rascally locals threw rocks at Kooky and told him to go home and some old guy cracked his head open and was bleeding all over the place. Cheers, Jeers and epic barrels, just another great day at EL Capitan.
1: 3/24/11 AM Session: 5-8+ft, Rincon
Waves Surfed: 14
Time In Water: 1hr 45mins
See blog “Bad Decisions Lead to Great Outcomes”
That el cap session was SO good. I am so glad I got to surf it. Imagine that on those days when rincon is too big.
UCB do you think there is a mirror of rincon anywhere in the world?
You never really hear of people really comparing right points to Rincon. Its always either compared to JBay, Malibu or Tresltes. Maybe it is because Rincon is fickle. I mean people even compare spots to Kirra and that place barley even exists anymore.