June was quite the month. We had a few shitty wind swells, a few shitty south swells, but overall very little to get excited about. As a matter of fact I think I have been more excited by watching Alfie switch sleeping spots all day. June was also a break out month for me. It was the month I stopped feeling sorry for myself and began surfing again instead of blaming it for all my problems. That being the case I made the most out of every day of surf we had. Here is how the month of June broke down. By the way I have not done write ups on April or May so you will probably see those in the next few weeks. Don’t forget to visit the Surflog to read about my surfing and life chronicled journal style everyday.
Number of Surf Sessions: 18
Days Surfed: 17
Time Spent in the Water: 27 hours
Number of Waves Surfed: 387
Waves per Hour: 14
Spots Surfed:
New Jetty – 5
Santa Clara River Mouth – 3
Stanleys – 2
Emma Wood – 2
C Street – 1
Zuma Beach – 1
Leo Carrillo – 1
Gold Coast – 1
Dredge – 1
Rincon – 1
Top 3 Sessions
3. 6/7/11 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Zuma Beach
Time in Water: 2hrs
Waves Surfed: 38
I love Zuma. Its one of my favorite waves in LA. Sure its nothing more then heavy closed out glorified shore break, but I think by now everyone should know that is right up my ally. Did I mention the backwash is sometimes bigger then the wave your paddling for? The place can amplify just about any south swell in the water. I checked Ventura Harbor early and it was looking doable but rather meager for my personal taste. I knew my buddy Kevin was going down there and gave him a call to hitch a ride. We cruised to Zuma and it was chest to head high and super punchy. The wind was a bit onshore but it looked boostable to me. As usual when I am at Zuma my froth meter goes berserk. I tore on my suit and was out there for a boost and barrel fest. Then after an hour it glassed off, but got super lully. Still there were some choice nugs to sink your teeth into. I was having a ball till some local decided to sit right on top of me even though there were plenty of peaks for everyone. I tried to paddle away but the dude kept following me. Finally I was just plain over it, stuck a backside air reverse and called it a day. Stick that in your pipe and smoke it angry local with all your super cool fly aways.
2. 6/5/11 PM Session: 3-5ft, Dredge
Time in the Water: 2.5hrs
Waves Surfed: 34
I got out of church and had four missed calls from all my Ventura friends. I knew there was going to be some minor bump up in wind swell but I just figured I would nonchalantly cruise down to Emma Wood on high tide. I called back my boy Ryan and he was frothing on Dredge. Ryan rarely is stoked on anything so if he was pumped I knew I had to get down there. Sure enough it was solid chest to head high with the occasional bigger set with very nice long right hand lines. Some were easily peeling for 75 to 100 yards, an anomaly for Dredge. There were about six guys on it and some slight cross chop from the SW wind. I got out there and for the first hour it was a bit bumpy and just when I was about to bag it the wind died out and things glassed off. For the next hour and a half it was a playground. I had at least four that I nailed no less then nine turns on. I would have surfed longer but I was exhausted between all the paddling, surfing and walking back up the beach. What a great day of surfing.
1. 6/14/11 AM Session: 3-5ft, New Jetty
Time In Water: 3hrs
Waves Surfed: 35
A serious lack of motivation had me slacking this morning. A small jump up on the buoys had me give it a shot. Next thing I know Im standing on the dunes looking a super fun combo swell peaks at New Jetty, glassy, head high and only a few guys out. Well it did not take me much time to throw on my suit and jump in the water. I was joined by my friends Bobby B and Gordo, both happily married with kids, thus helping to restore my faith in relationships. All I can say is I had a ball and surfed amazing as well. What a session. Everyone was just going off and super stoked to be out there. As depressed as I was on both Sunday and Monday that is how stoked I was today. A good surf always puts things in perspective.
Talk about excitement. Nobody knows how to have a good time quite like Alife.
Surfing Ruined My Life 
I think we surfed nearly as much in the week I was there than you did in all of june. I know I sure did, this is the worst eastcoast summer I can ever remember. Not even a fucking windswell, just hot and sticky. I should have come out there and done wildfire fighting.
UCB your biggest influences musically.
UCB: your opinion of mankind as a whole.
UCB: favorite desserts.
[…] I still managed to bring my surfing back up to speed considering the crapper it took back in June (see blog: Oh That Summertime for more details). In July I was determined to fall back in love with surfing again. I found myself for the most […]