Is that a barrel? Nope just a “PGCB” (don’t know what that stands for yet? Read this.)
Its sort of funny how fast this summer deteriorated on the surf front. Usually it is the opposite. June and early July are the hardest months for surfing here. So far it being ten days into August and I have only surfed twice and both were in waves just over waist high I will be the first to declare that I have officially given up on the summer 2013 as being anything more in the books then marginal at best. I thought July was pretty fruitful, but as I just looked over my stats I beg to differ.
I will say I was rather diligent and made the most out of just about whatever ripple the Pacific did decide to send my way. I got off my lazy ass and even did a bit of surf adventuring first up in San Francisco with Mauriello (if you missed the tales read here) and immediately following, Bizarro and I cruised down to San Diego for a few days where I met up with West for some Blacks Beach action (for that scoop read here). With out jumping on a plane and traveling half way around the world or to a different hemisphere I did my best to stay wet. Here are the numbers and top surf sessions from July.
Surf Sessions: 27
Days Surfed: 18
Total Time Spend in the Water: 47 hrs
Total Waves Surfed: 788
Average Waves Surfed Per Hour: 17
Spots Surfed:
Blacks Beach, San Diego: 7
Emma Wood: 4
Santa Clara River Mouth: 3
New Jetty: 3
Grey Whale Cove, San Mateo: 2
Waddel Creek, Santa Cruz: 2
Lower Trestles, San Clemente: 2
County Line: 1
Oxnard Shores: 1
Scripps Pier, San Diego: 1
Davenport, Santa Cruz: 1
Top 3 Surf Sessions:
3) 7-21-13 PM Session: 3-5+ ft, Blacks Beach , San Diego
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 31
West and I wanted to grab one more session together before I leave town tomorrow. After the terrible morning session I was not expecting anything. I figured worse case scenario we go out there and shoot the shit while we grovel. As it turned out the wind died, the swell was holding and the crowd was slowly dropping off. Everyone was sitting on the north peak so we went and sat the top of the canyon. There were plenty of really fun ones. As the evening wore on it just got more glassy. I managed to get a barrel down the entire length of the canyon and came out. The swell seemed a bit stretched on many of the set waves. Still it was prob the most fun I had of the trip surfing.
2) 7-22-13 AM Session: 2-4+ ft, Blacks Beach, San Diego
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 22
I find it very fitting that on my last morning here Blacks was about as good as Blacks gets condition wise. The surf was solid chest to head high, glass, nice lines, good corners and pretty consistent. The crowd was on it making it a bit rough at times to get a good one. I paddled more down on the north end of the canyon. There were really good rights and lefts. This was finally after days, the Blacks I drove 200 miles to surf. I had one really deep sick frontside barrel, stuck a few good airs and overall was finding plenty of good ones. The wind came up around 11am and that was fine cause I had already gotten more then my fill. Good times. Looks like I am back on the road home again. I can’t wait to get home to the Barb and see my lady.
1) 7-13-13 AM Session: 3-5 ft, Waddel Creek, Santa Cruz
Time in Water: 2.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 42
Once again Waddel looked the best. I was feeling a bit hung over after last nights little visit to Fancytown. This time we gave the reef a go where we saw a fun looking left peeling down the north end of the reef. Turns out it was a bit soft, slow and lully. After three waves I floated to the beach break which was a barrel fest. I had the place to myself the whole session while everyone else surfed the mush burger on the reef. Then John paddled over and it was a full on froth shred sess. I can’t remember the last time I enjoyed a session with so many barres and kill-able sections. So much fun. And we got to heckle Nat Young in the parking lot cause we are stupid like that. Most likely they just thought we had a learning disability.
There you have it another month of surfing in the can. As you can see its been nothing but monkey cock her in the 805 considering my top three sessions all came from out of town. Please feel free to follow along with both my surfing and life adventures in the surflog. Get the full scoop on July there.
The theme of July was GROVEL. Photo: Christopher Dunlea
Surfing Ruined My Life 