Could this have really happened? That was my first thought as I compiled June’s surf numbers. I put an unprecedented amount of time in for a month that is usually barely ride-able at best. The north pacific decided to keep the ball running through the bulk of June. At the same time the south pacific graced us with just enough magic to remind everyone here in central California that south swells actually do exist north of Point Mugu.
Besides mother nature who is not even close to making up for the skunking we faced here in the 805 this past winter, there are a few other factors I need to acknowledge that allowed me to maximize the most out of my surfing in June. First I must thank America for their great unemployment system, sure I only get around $230 take home a week, but I don’t have to work either. Although it is a pain in the ass to fill out the five question form, put it in an envelope adhere a stamp and take it to the post office. First off I am unemployed, so why is it that the government thinks I can afford a packet of stamps? That shit ought to be postage paid. Then do you know how hard it is to find a mailbox these days? The post office near my house closed down. How the fuck a U.S. Postal Office closes is beyond me. Damn broke ass government.
I think they do it on purpose to make things more difficult for free loaders like myself to get those unemployment forms in. I have to give a shout out to my girlfriend Heather for keeping me out of the Wild Cat more times then not. I had no idea how much more time I could spend surfing and how much better I can surf when not hung over till 5 pm everyday. My overly stoked surfing buddy Trevor whom with out his blind love for absolutely terrible waves and grom like surf stoke kept me in the water more then a few days I would have not even bothered. Besides all of that it was a super fun month of average to good California in surprisingly warm water. Here are the numbers and as usual feel free to enjoy daily surf updates in the surflog.
Surf Sessions: 34
Days Surfed: 24
Total Water Time: 62 hrs
Total Waves Surfed: 932
Average Waves Surfed per Hour: 15
Spots Surfed:
Emma Wood: 9
New Jetty: 6
Santa Clara River Mouth: 6
Mesa Lane: 4
Lower Trestles, San Clemente: 2
El Capitan: 1
Rincon: 1
Hammonds: 1
Leo Carrillo, Malibu: 1
Oxnard Shores: 1
Pitas: 1
Solimar: 1
Top 3 Surf Sessions taken directly from the June ’13 Surflog:
3)6-27-13 AM Session: 4-6+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs, 45 mins
Waves Surfed: 33
I knew it was going to be solid today. Everything just depended on the wind. I got to the Harbor and there was some WSW wind on it and things were really foggy. New Jetty had a wave but it looked average at best and bit on the crowded side for what was coming in. I took a walk down to River Mouth and sure enough there were clean enough peaks coming in. It was hallow as hell. I saw a wave spit while I was checking it. I paddled and it was way heavier then I had expected. Full on double up bowls and some creepy rouge close outs from the west. I managed a handful of crazy barrels the first half of the session. As the tide came up it became a rip fest out there. It was solid and super fun to surf in waves of consequence again. I came in due to exhaustion from fighting the current. I decided to kick it in the lot for a chance at another session in the afternoon.
2) 6-29-13 PM Session: 3-5+ft, Santa Clara River Mouth
Time in Water: 2 hrs 15 mins
Waves Surfed: 36
I got a late start today courtesy of a full black out at the Wild Cat. I don’t even remember walking in. I was hung over as fuck all day. The surf was firing so finally I manned up at the end of the day grabbed Heather and headed to surf. Luckily the wind decided to stay down and the surf was firing. Ryan met up with us and we trotted down to the reeds where it was going off. Barrels, kill-able sections everything you would want out of a surf. There was almost no crowd. The sunset was amazing and water was warm. I must say it was another great day of surfing.
1) 6-28-13 AM Session: 3-5+ft, Oxnard shores
Time in Water: 2 hrs
Waves Surfed: 38
I decided to check Rincon first thing this morning and seriously almost vomited at the destruction the new highway expansion program has done to the sanctity of Rincon. Of course it will not be till the winter when we find out if the sea wall extension will cause extra backwash in the bottom of the Cove. Lets hope not, but hey who cares as long as there can now be three lanes of bumper to bumper traffic instead of two. I was at the bottom of the trail when I ran into to regulars, die hard Rincon locals and good friends of mine. Both were not very enthusiastic. We were chilling up in the lot for a spell when I got a text from Ryan that Oxnard Shores was on. Considering the tide and swell direction I figured he was spot on. I booked it down there and as I was changing all these guys were getting out. I was afraid it had already turned off. The Shores is one of those very fickle spots. To my shock they said it was firing and that they were just too tired to surf anymore. Gordo pulled up and we paddled. Sure enough it was about as fun as waves can get. Head high to over head, glassy, perfect A frame bowls up and down the beach. I got my first ten waves before the half hour mark. It was amazing, not a drop of water out of place. Not really hallow although there were a few shacks. Just completely rip-able surf. I went to fucking town. Might have been one of the best sessions I have had all year. Soo much fun.
Just another perfect end to another perfect day of surfing in the month of June.
Surfing Ruined My Life 