October is usually a crazy month for surf around here. This one was rather average, although there were some choice days. I had a few keepers at Rincon and plenty of beach break action. I think this may the be winter of the beach breaks unfortunately. October marked the return of Kooky Kyle to Lisanti Land, this time joining the court at the Palace for an extended stay. You can check out Kooky’s Korner for his take on things from time to time. Kooky and I went on a 24 hour idiot mission up to San Francisco to surprise our boy and UCB all star John Mauriello, surfing a few spots on the way up. Besides that I kicked a second heroine addict roommate out of my house. Third time is a charm I guess. Business as usual here in the Land of Lisanti. Here are the stats and yes I know I am posting October’s stats in December. I am month behind. Always a day late and a dollar short.
Number of Surf Sessions: 21
Days surfed: 20
Time In Water: 34hrs
Number of Waves Surfed: 497
Average Waves Surfed Per Hour: 15
Spots Surfed:
New Jetty : 8
Rincon: 7
Waddel Creek, Santa Cruz: 1
Moss Landing Montery: 1
Surf Beach: 1
Santa Clara River Mouth: 1
Emma Wood: 1
La Conchita: 1
Top 3 Sessions in October:
3. 10/27/11 AM Session: 2-3+, New Jetty
Time in Water: 1.5 hrs
Waves Surfed: 25
You know those sessions when you feel like God? I had one today. It was only about chest to head high and a bit crumbly with the wind on it, not to mention a larger then optimal crowd. I was on and that was all that mattered. Every good wave seemingly came right to me. All my turns were crisp. I stuck a bunch of airs. It was just one of those days.
2. 10/18/11 AM Session: 2-4+ft, Surf Beach
Time in Water: 1hr 50mins
Waves Surfed: 27
Ahhh, Surf Beach and just about the one year anniversary of the fatal shark attack that happened there. With minimal swell and a need for adventure Kooky and I threw caution to the wind and went up to the wild north. Upon pulling into the lot we were greeted by fun looking glassy chest high plus bowls with out a person in sight. As we got changed this crazy old man who had to be over eighty and was born in Lompoc in 1924, lived there his whole life, began telling us all these gnarly stories of way back in the day. He lost his wife of like thirty years last year and found himself a bit lonely these days. I always find it really sad when old people lose their spouse after all that time. I could not imagine the heart break. Turns out he should not drive cause he has dementia but does anyway cause he does not give a fuck. First thing he said to us was “I’m 86 years old and lost in life, maybe I always had been”. Those words always win me over. Then as we were about to paddle out this lady whom I have surfed both there and Jalama with claimed some guys saw a 12 foot great white there yesterday. I told her “well that was not today now was it” and paddled out. Turns out the session was super fun and both Kooky and I scored some sick waves. I got a few barrels. We stopped at the Jalama Cafe for Lunch, my favorite eatery in the area and ran into that same old guy. What an awesome day.
1. 10/13/11 AM Session: 4-6ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 2hrs 45mins
Waves surfed: 27
Oh man, Rincon. Today was the first day I have to say Rincon really cooked for me this season. Kooky and I got there and the lot was packed. I was going to drive away, but my rule of thumb is that if I can get a space in the front lot then I will surf the place regardless. I ended up snagging a spot and was stoked I did. The place was on. I started up at River Mouth and surfed from there down three times. I had some sick ones. Out of the 27 waves at least twenty had no less then 9 turns. I got two from high River Mouth to Low Cove and called boxed one from high cove. Killian was out and had some guy filming him with a 35mm. I had so many sick ones it was incredible. I love Rincon.
Well there you have it the month of October in surf sessions. As always if you enjoy reading these little session reviews check out the surflog where I post some type of insanity about both my life and surfing every single day.
Alright this was not taken in the month of October. My boy Dave's girl Roo shot it at Santa Clara River Mouth back in March. Its still a sicky though.
Surfing Ruined My Life 
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