December 2011 Surf Sessions in Review
With each session review I get closer to compiling enough data to bring a 2011 year of surfing in review to this site. It will be the first of its kind and I must say I am rather excited to see the results of 12 months of useless surfing data. I know I am crazy. OCD is a terrible disease. I guess one could say I am the Rain Man of surfing except I do not have the ability to count cards.
December started out slow surf wise then the north west swells just began to pour in and as of the moment really have not stopped. Believe me there are no complaints here. My only gripe is with myself and the fact that I blew a number of potential surf sessions thanks to either pure laziness, partying too hard or due to injuries incurred from partying, all of which amounted to December becoming the most underutilized month of the year for me. That being said there were still plenty of good times all around.
In life I managed to begin the renovations on my apartment, which at press time are just about finished. Mentally and emotionally I worked through a ton of issues I have been harboring as well. Maybe not surfing my brains out amounted to some positive in the end. Only time will tell. Here are the stats for December:
Number of Surf Sessions: 23
Days Surfed: 18
Total Time Spent in the Water: 35hrs, 25 mins
Waves Surfed: 442
Average Waves Caught in an Hour: 13
Spots Surfed:
Rincon: 8
Emma Wood: 3
Hollywood By The Sea: 3
Little Rincon: 2
New Jetty: 2
Oxnard Shores: 2
C Street: 1
Kooks Peak: 1
Top Three Surf Sessions:
3) 12/20/11 PM Session: 2-3+ft, C Street
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 1o
Mother fucking Cstreet, are you kidding me. Is that really where I have had the best session in the last five? Apparently. Kooky and I car surfed down to Emma finding nothing. The choice came down to running back to Rincon or going to Cstreet. I had a feeling it could be fun at the latter so it was on. Not even looking at it we suited up. Out of time it was a make it or break it kind of session, sometimes the best ones. There were two distinct peaks up at pipe. Straight out of the gates I was nailing good waves. I caught ten waves and eight of those had no less then six turns. My last three were sick and some of the better backside turns I have done on my new board. My last wave was so good I quit on it even though I still had easily another 15 minutes of light left. Unfortunately Kooky not really knowing where to sit had a frustrating session. C Street can givith and take it away just as fast.
2) 12/4/11 AM Session: 2-4ft, Oxnard Shores
Time in Water: 1hr
Waves Surfed: 17
Finally a surf and a good one at that. I got down to Ventura Harbor and it was all closed out. I was left with a choice of either going to a steadily draining tide Emma Wood or a gamble at the shores. If I choose the shores and lost then I would have once again blew my gas on yet another wasted car surf. My prayers were answered as I came up the beach to head high offshore spitting barrels in every direction I looked. Kooky and I were on it. What ensued was a full on barrel fest. I had some drainers. I saw Kooky get blasted out of a few good ones too. My last wave was one of the better left hand barrels I have caught in a long time. It may have been three days in the making but the first session of the month was on.
1) 12/25/11 AM Session: 3-4+ft, Rincon
Time in Water: 3hrs
Waves Surfed: 24
See a Christmas of Epic Proportions Part I and Part II for more details.
Well there you have it another month of surfing in Lisanti Land folks. As always you can keep a daily tab on my surfing sessions or just the gnarl that happens in my life that keeps me from surfing at the surflog.
UCB: the relation between men and women post women’s lib.
power of ten: Barf Barrel
surf lingo
worst surf trip you ever took
vagrancy
garbage can books
the dish cloth and alfie
girls destroying clothing
covering your tracks
best …Lost moment
Cutting glove mornings
animal print